Selling scrap well is mostly about two things: knowing roughly what you have, and not letting the good material get graded down by the bad. Neither requires expertise. A few minutes of separation before the vehicle arrives is usually worth more than any amount of negotiating at the gate.
This page covers the sequence, then the specific mistakes that cost people money. If you only take one thing from it: keep copper, brass and aluminium out of your iron pile.
Common questions
- How do I know I am getting a fair price?
- Ask for the rate per grade before weighing, watch the scale, and check the arithmetic. A dealer who separates grades in front of you and shows the readings has nothing to hide; one who weighs everything as one lump does.
- Should I sell now or wait for prices to rise?
- For household quantities, timing rarely moves the number enough to matter against the nuisance of storing it. For tonnage-scale industrial lots, it can be worth discussing — call and we will tell you honestly how the market looks.
- Do you buy small quantities?
- Yes, though below a certain weight free pickup stops making sense. We will tell you where that line falls for your area rather than sending a vehicle and renegotiating.
- Can I bring the scrap to you instead?
- Yes. Both branches accept drop-offs, which is often the better option for small lots that do not qualify for free collection.
- What identification do I need?
- None for ordinary household scrap. For copper, cable, precious-metal scrap and vehicles, bring photo ID, plus a works order or authorisation letter if you are selling on behalf of a company.